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Routes in Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)

Brain, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Joe's Place T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Practice Session T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prize, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Thriller Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Face, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Bob Parrot, Rob Adair 1990
Page Views: 557 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This prominent arete is certainly the most photogenic climb in the area, with terrific views of Mount Washington in the distance. About 60 Feet to the right of Standard Route, Thriller climbs the intimidating overhanging arete, following it up and right. Start on the right side of the arete, eventually making your way around the corner to holds the left. Eventually a jug can be reached near the top where you can shake out and consider the top out. Breaking left from this jug is a variation of the original route, and clocks in at 5.10a. Either way, the climbing is pumpy and sequential all the way to the jug.

Location

60 feet the the right of Standard Route, and left of the Chimney and Blockheads, Thriller Arete climbs the obvious steep arete.

Protection

Takes mostly smaller cams and nuts

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.9+
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
  5.9+
I thought the climbing was great! Awesome route overall. Speaking of the 5.10a "variation" which seemed to be the obvious natural line to me, it is definitely soft in the grade for a trad route - no way it would be rated any higher than 5.9 at Cathedral. And there are really only a few tough moves - otherwise it is mostly a Cathedral 5.7. However, the gear placements can be a little tricky, and some moves are committing which can make it feel PGish. Jun 12, 2017
I have no idea why this route is rated so highly, it is not a 3 star route by any means. Maybe a two star. I climbed in excellent weather and conditions and it was still very meh. I would not suggest setting up a top rope on this route. Previous comments suggest it is possible and it certainly is but if you have the ability to lead you should just lead it, if you are looking to get a beginner on this route don't. May 22, 2017
If you have climbed this route or are looking for something a little different try the finger crack to the right of this route. Such a fun pumpy route.
Aug 28, 2016
agreed chris, the gear isnt super straight forward but not too devious.
the exposure on this route is awesome for a single pitch. If you can do this route you should climb the first 15 feet of the chimney route then bust left following a pumpy thin crack to the top, not sure what the route name is but its a little harder but super fun. Jan 27, 2013
Gear is good, but hard to place and the rock is quite broken. Look for a blue (#1) TCU or Mastercam in a hidden horizontal near the top. Punch it from here.

Top roping this route is possible by climbing up the Standard Route face via a 5.6 finger crack on the right side to a horizontal which will take finger sized gear for an anchor. You'll need to rig a few directionals too. That said, this route really a lead climb. Jun 25, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Good gear right up to the top with some pump.Small cams and a couple wires. Double up at the rest so you can just fire to the top. Apr 17, 2012
How is the gear on this climb? Apr 17, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
Based on this I'd think it is. Oct 28, 2010
patrick donahue
Bend, OR
patrick donahue   Bend, OR
is it possible to set this up as a top rope? May 1, 2010