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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar

Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Alan Cattabraga 1988
Page Views: 139 total, 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.

Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.

Location

Left of Three Easy Pieces 5.10a....

Protection

Trad gear. Belay from trees.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Sounds like they didn't take my advice of placing gear mindfully and not falling...
by "mindfully" I meant placing gear in the safest place on the flake ie closest to its contact with the rest of the cliff there by having less fulcrum to flex and eventually pull off the flake. oh, and DON'T FALL! Sep 18, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
I have seen the flake flex under a falling load with a #1 or #2 C4 behind the end of it. It wasn't me on the rope at the time and I was still very fearful just being in the area. It bends, but did not kill anyone. Sep 16, 2015
S. Neoh  
We did TR this climb a while back, after I led up Three Easy Pieces. I do not remember if we placed a directional piece up high before the top out or not. The hollow flake was flexing but did not give the impression it was about to explode when pulled on a bunch of scrawny folks. Not sure what an expanding cam under load will do to it, however.
The real climbing was fun and interesting enough, albeit too short. Sep 16, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
In terms of anchor logistics, you can clip long draws on the anchor of squall/ three easy pieces and have someone second you up this route to clean it. I doubt that the flake is going to come down this year. A pretty fun route if you like the Rumney trad! Sep 15, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
no fixed anchor... really i think gear would hold fine if placed mindfully... Jun 24, 2012
S. Neoh  
I had considered soloing thru the dodgy part. Is there a fixed anchor at the top? Jun 23, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Just updated the description after me and some friends climbed it today... Actually quite fun climbing. If it wasn't loose, dirty and trad it would be quite popular haha... Not a route for everyone but i had fun... Jun 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Good training for Cannon, if you do 100 laps in a day. May 8, 2011
Ladd

  5.10a X
Ladd    
  5.10a X
I've looked at this one too, maybe I'll do it someday with a top-belay. Aug 23, 2007