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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar

Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 6/99
Page Views: 2,023 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A good first lead, well placed bolts and moderate climbing.
Stay to the left of the bolts and you will find secure climbing at 5.4. To the right of the bolts is a little harder at about 5.6.

One of the great things about Rumney is that folks bolt moderate lines like this so you can get down the basics of lead climbing before you climb something hard for you.

Location

Far right line of bolts.

Protection

4 bolts to anchor.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.5
S. Neoh  
  5.5
Yes, the quickies are rather worn as of today (7/30/2017). We felt that they were still safe enough for lower from at this time. That said, they ought to be replaced sooner than later.
What's more pressing perhaps is letting the climbing community know that there is one loose handhold (football size) and one loose foothold (smaller) on the right side of the climb between bolt #2 and #3. Even with the right variation between #2 and #3, both can be avoided by doing slight harder moves. My partners climbed the left variation and were able to totally skip the loose holds as a matter of course. Jul 30, 2017
Just a heads up, the quick clips are getting severely worn, nearly a half inch through both clips. Be sure to top rope with your own gear and do not use the permanent gear.

i.imgur.com/J7Uvj2c.jpg

i.imgur.com/Ldfzrok.jpg Aug 8, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
I'd have to agree with Matt here, the bottom felt a little harder than 5.4, but who knows anyway? May 14, 2015
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Hard to rate this climb, I thought. Every other 5.4 at Rumney is slab, while this climb is pretty much vertical. Apr 4, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
thanks lee could you send me an email with your top few suggestions say 5.7ish and easier... Apr 7, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
any time... ive done more rumney trad than anyone i know so feel free to ask about the trad routes up there... Apr 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
Thanks lee i had looked at that and intend to get on it Apr 7, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
A great trad route at this grade is PeeWee's Big Adventure 5.4, up at The Crows Nest... great gear and way more fun :) Apr 7, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
yeah thats what I thought I am looking to get deep into trad this year so i looking for as many cool things to try out Apr 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Hell yeah, this thing has plenty of placements... if you follow the crack just right of the bolt line it would be even better and 5.6 at the most... Apr 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.4
Do you think this can go on gear? Apr 6, 2009