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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar

Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Ed Esmond 1995
Page Views: 377 total, 3/month
Shared By: Ladd on May 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


102 Opinions

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Description

This line was started by Joe McLoughlin, but he had to abandon it to attend to romantic responsibilities, leaving it to Ed to finish, hence the name. Climb up ledges that provide weird mantel-ish moves. Grab some decent face holds. Continue up face to anchors using some horizontal cracks and face holds. Note- there are a couple well chocked in blocks that moves if you grab them. You don't need to use them and they have been like that for 20 years - no need to chalk them up with 'X's or break them up. Good practice for rocky and unstable relationships!

Good climb to warm up on if you want to do Three easy pieces and/or squall. Just remember to do more than one lap!

Location

Route right in front of you when you walk up on trail. Kind of looks like super blunt arete.

Protection

Bolts to anchors

Photos

Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Climbed for the first time yesterday and really enjoyed it. The move past the first bolt and the second bolt was tricky for me. After getting above the second bolt, I thought the rest of the climb went fairly easy. I would go back and climb this again for sure! Jun 13, 2016
i don't usually comment on comments; but…

i re-climbed that route just the other day.

the block with the "x" on it has been just as loose as it was the first day i rapped down it in 1995. the fact that it hasn't fallen out in 20 years of 5.8 gumbies yarding on it, might tell you something about how "chossy" this route really is ….

i worked on the "x" block for a long time before deciding the only way it was coming out was if i smashed it into a bunch of small pieces that could be dug out. i didn't think that was a good idea. apparently, others (with less actual knowledge,) disagree…

whatever…

obviously, it's smart to be careful and observant, but is it really smart to speak with authority when you have no real understanding of a situation?

and if you think "it climbs like shit," well, people tend to dislike things that challenge them…


respectfully,

ed e

ps. "microwave-sized block???" must be a "micro- microwave…" Sep 15, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
Lee, this route is far safer than Danger (which felt reasonably safe as long as you don't fall). I was on it this year, and yes things wiggle; but no, I don't think it is going to kill any even lightly seasoned climber. Probably not good to do with others groups around. I think the major issue with this route is just that it climbs like shit. Sep 15, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.9-
S. Neoh  
  5.9-
We did this route today even though it was pretty wet down low. The moves are not enjoyable but I would say it is far from being unsafe. One does not have to touch the "X" block at all. Stiff and awkward for sure for an .8. I do not think I will climb this one ever again. Jul 14, 2013
A.Javi.Gecko
San Diego, CA
  5.8 X
A.Javi.Gecko   San Diego, CA
  5.8 X
Glad to hear some folks went to check it out and that the moving blocks don't appear to be falling anytime soon. I certainly overreacted but luckily multiple people went to make sure as there's no other way to find out and I wasn't exactly raring to test the route again. Dec 23, 2012
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
 
I climbed the route today. There are two scary loose blocks marked with X between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but it turns out they are cammed in place pretty tight (as in, I tried and failed to pull them out). I did not find the wiggly flake at the 4th bolt, but be careful. Oct 13, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8
I climbed this route about a month ago and it was not near as bad as that comment suggests. This route for the last three or so years has had some lose blocks on it but nothing like that comment. The blocks that have been there have been loose for a few years without coming out and are all well marked with a "X". If someone is willing to check it out and remove some of the loose blocks that would be much appreciated. None of the blocks are must use holds, I climbed the route easily while avoiding them... Oct 10, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i havent been on it in a couple years any one else have recent experience on this thing? the only route ive done up there this year was Danger 5.10a X and that seemed safer than this description haha... Oct 10, 2012
A.Javi.Gecko
San Diego, CA
  5.8 X
A.Javi.Gecko   San Diego, CA
  5.8 X
I climbed this route as a warm down this past weekend and found myself stressing out (and thus NOT warming down) the entire climb. In my opinion, THIS ROUTE IS NOT SAFE TO CLIMB. While a couple routes at lower Darth Vadar have SOME loose rocks, the top half of this route is VERY CHOSSY with several fist to microwave-sized blocks that are just waiting for someone to pull them down as well as an unavoidable torso-sized flake that wiggles while you hold onto it to clip the 4th(?) bolt. Victim of Love is situated between a popular 5.6 and a 5.7 and I see no reason to risk the safety of yourself, your partner and adjacent climbers simply because you'd rather climb a 5.8 than a slightly-easier route (like I unknowingly did). Ideally I'd like to see this route decommissioned to save climbers from confusion in the future. Oct 8, 2012
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
 
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
 
The upper part reminded me of the Gunks, except for the bolts, and the loose rock. Sep 18, 2010