Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 3,042 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on May 2, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

113 Opinions

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This climb is at least a letter grade harder for the short climber.
Start out on the ledge right of three easy pieces and get you hands into a nice sharp jug. Make a move and gain some move sharp moves(will be hard for short climbers to make the reach) continue up then move up and left out bigger holds to anchors. Excellent footwork is required for this climb to feel do-able for the shorter climber.
I would not suggest this climb for the 5.10 climber with soft gym hands.


Route just right of 3 Easy pieces, starts on ledge


Bolts to Anchor on tree (bunch o' slings)
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
the top of the route traverses left quite a bit between the last bolt and the anchors, which unfortunately are two sets of chains. It sucks to take a whipper at the chains (or at least it looked like it sucked) but there is a bomber jug just left of the chains to help keep you cool when clipping in. Aug 16, 2007
this is an awesome climb. I agree that the start is really difficult for shorter climbers (my friend couldn't follow it, because she couldn't reach the first hold) and yes it does seem like a long way to the chains from the last bolt. I missed the last bolt because it was on the left side of a point that you come around and I was just focused on getting to the chains...but luckily the second to last bolt was on the other side of that point...phew May 26, 2008
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Fun, strong moves up and past the 2nd bolt. The guidebook mentions to head towards the chains at the top of Three Easy Pieces, but there is an additional tree anchor that is more centered with the start of the route. There are multiple 4th bolts that could be used, but it doesn't make sense to clip them both -- they are nearly parallel to each other and appear to be specific for the anchor you decide to use. If you avoid the tree anchor, cleaning can be slightly difficult. Jun 25, 2008
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Grrr... How many times do the slings need to be cut off the tree? The second chain anchor was put there for a reason; so the tree would not be used. It is a small pine tree and it's use as an anchor is not going to extend it's life any. Besides, using a 4 inch pine tree at the edge of a cliff as your sole anchor is not the smartest move. With a half way decent belay, a fall near the end shouldn't be a problem, and you are on big jugs.

The FA was done by Chris Smith. Jun 25, 2008
Jake D.
Jake D.   Northeast
The slings on the tree have been removed. It is not a good anchor and there is the bolt on the other side for a reason.. to put you at the corner anchor chains. Put a 24" sling on either or both of them and the fall and rope drag is not bad at all. the moves are 5.8 at most.. you just finished a 10d. sack up. If you are afraid of a 4 foot lead fall perhaps you should go back to the gym. Have someone TR it.. or TR it again yourself if you can't tram across and clean it. You can unclip the first bolt from the ledge and downclimb. May 10, 2010
Tim Waystrong
New Hampshire
Tim Waystrong   New Hampshire
Can the shorter climber add number grades if needed? Jun 22, 2010
Jake D.
Jake D.   Northeast
I'm 5'7 and have no problems doing the start when you get the feet right. see the pics of me doing it "Smith" style for proof :) Jul 7, 2010
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
You all might be glad to know that there was no sling anchor on the pine tree today. The message has gotten through, I guess. Nice, independent chain anchor next to the anchor for 3 Easy Pieces.
Oh, yeah, this route felt at least as hard as 3 Easy Pieces to me. I am pretty short. Sep 5, 2010
North Wilmot, New Hampshire
SmithBro   North Wilmot, New Hampshire
I clip the 4th bolt with a long draw, to keep the rope on the left of the nose. Leslie has used a cheater stone at the start for the last 17 years, And I can't stop her. Mar 3, 2011
AtiMonkey91 Lefland
New Haven, CT
AtiMonkey91 Lefland   New Haven, CT
Here is a video of me following Squall. I am 6'1", so I can reach up to the slot while still standing on the boulder. Still plenty of fun though...
youtube.com/watch?v=bLdOifU… Oct 17, 2011
Kim Parretti
Worcester, MA
Kim Parretti   Worcester, MA
If you're worried about the slightly run-out traverse to the anchors, don't be. The fall is clean. I got all the way up to the anchors clean but I was so pumped I couldn't clip them and took a nice clear whipper into space. Bummed I didn't get the send, but at least the fall was fun :)

Also, I'm about 5'7" with a 5'8.5" wingspan and I can just reach the slot from the start boulder. Any shorter and you'll probably have a harder time. Jul 14, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Getting over the initial bulge is the hardest part of the route by far. The top is cake compared to the overhang, so don't worry about the upper traverse. It's huge jugs. Surmounting the bulge is inobvious (it's wicked hard to see the holds), and, IMO, it's harder to climb first shot than any of the moves on Three Easy Pieces. Aug 21, 2014
If I can recall correctly the start of this route is about as hard as it gets. If you can pull the first two moves, move up into a nice stance where you can bear-hug two arm sized holes until you become less pumped and can finish out the easy traverse. Jan 22, 2015
Torie Kidd   NH
Got on this yesterday. At 5'3", I found the start extremely challenging. I did find possible short person beta using a jump from the ground into a right hand finger lock. I didn't send (that finger lock was sharp and I was tired), but I think that will be the key (for me). It looks really fun though... From the ground looking up. :) Oct 25, 2015
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Jumping into a finger lock carries with it significant risk of injury. I tried it once too. My advice? Use a cheater block so that you can reach a decent hold with one hand but not both. Oct 26, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
I found Squall to be far more difficult than 3 Easy Pieces and I'm 5'10". Height wasn't the issue. I onsighted Squall, and then 3 Easy Pieces right after; Squall felt much more like an 11a than 3 Easy Pieces did in my opinion! Jul 18, 2016
Franck Vee
Franck Vee  
5'7" here and this is much, much harder than the neiboring one but just because of the very first moves.... the rest is easier indeed.

I onsighted 3 little pieces but could barely manage the opening on this one! Apr 23, 2017