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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar

Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Scott Stevenson 1988
Page Views: 3,867 total, 29/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


111 Opinions

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Description

The name says it all.Three Easy Pieces three bolts and lots of nice climbing for a short climb. This is my favorite climb at the Upper Vadar crag. The moves are fun and the holds are good for the most part.
A good first 5.11 if you are just breaking in to the grade (as long as you like steep stuff).

Location

Climbs the far left arete. From the easier climbs walk down and left around the corner to the steep face follow the left-most line of bolts.

Protection

3 bolts to anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
The Fat Kid  
 
This is a great route! I agree that the crux is the short traverse and then the crossover to come around the corner. It hasn't been mentioned, but sinking the right heel in instead of standing on the right toes made the crux a lot easier for everyone in my group.

The jugs at the end are awesome, but move quickly on a cold day otherwise your hands will go numb before you reach the chains!

Cleaning: We easily removed the first and second draws with a stick clip. Dec 11, 2013
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
First 11 lead. Had did romancing the stone, underdog and a few other 10s the day prior. Never had any intention of leading 11 but it went clean. One difficult move low then a super pumpy jug haul to the top. Great route to break into the grade. Nov 16, 2013
Brendan Blanchard
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Brendan Blanchard   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Really fun, kinda like a shorter Social Outcast, and about equally annoying, but not terribly hard to clean.

IMO, the best way to clean it is to tram in (belay loop/rope), then clean the 4th, and 3rd draw, then clip the tram draw to the second bolt draw, lean over, clean the first, then pull on a bit and pop the second draw out. The cleaner will take a 4-5ft swing, and the belayer just needs a solid stance. It's nothing bad, and does no harm to the rope. And unlike it's bigger brother Social, there's no trees in the way ;) - I say this because someone left their first draw on, presumably because they couldn't recover it safely. Nov 4, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Equipped with big beefy eye bolts. Just wish it was longer. Sep 5, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Thanks Jeffrey! Jan 29, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.11a
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.11a
"When I was strong" I used to think 11a was a little generous, but acceptable. Re-climbing it recently, I think it's a great route for anyone looking to break into 11's. For me, the moves coming around the corner () were the crux. The top is overhung, but on grity, big holds. Jan 29, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Where is the crux on this? by looking at the pictures it looks like it is before the steep stuff, am I correct? Jan 29, 2010
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
this is an awesome climb. It took a little creativity to get a good stance for the second bolt. May 26, 2008
Ladd

  5.11a
Ladd    
  5.11a
I agree with you Lee, this climb is a good one for the 5.10 climber to use to break into the 5.11 grades. Its shouldery style and powerful pinch and pulling moves lend themself to the gym climber looking to become an outdoor 5.11 climber. May 2, 2007