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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar

Blustery Day S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Danger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Frosted Flakes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Squall S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Easy Pieces S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Love S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Paula King 4/95
Page Views: 2,621 total, 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


154 Opinions

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Description

This might be the best of the moderate route here.
The moves are up top are a little harder than they look and you will tie on a pump if 5.7 is your limit.
I think what I like so much about this route is the rock quality it just feels nice on the fingers and flows well.

Location

Second route to the left. You will see the tasty looking flakes.

Protection

4 bolts to quick clips.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.8-
S. Neoh  
  5.8-
I agree it is the best route at UDV (even though I have not done Danger). Stiff for a .7 fore sure if you climb till the anchor is at your waist. Do this to get full credit. Jul 14, 2013
Sam Owens
Durham, New Hampshire
 
Sam Owens   Durham, New Hampshire
 
my first outdoor lead ever!! always remember this route May 2, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
It's solid for 7, maybe 7+. While it's short it gets to the business quickly and is sustained with one good rest midway and one mediocre rest at the top crux. One of the rap anchor bolts is loose, could turn it by hand, and the other is a spinner. I rapped off after doing my best to tighten them but they may need some expert attention. Mar 20, 2012