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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jean de Lataillade & Bertrand Gramont, 9/87
Page Views: 2,114 total, 16/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is regarded by many as the best route at Cochiti Mesa. Slightly overhanging, with excellent rock, and deep, positive pockets, its hard to argue with that assessment. Due to the overhanging nature, this line is much more pumpy than most Cochiti routes, and the ability to quickly identify the best sequence is critical.

There are two ways to climb this route, which accounts for the split grade. However, the various area guidebooks disagree on which way is harder. The route begins by climbing the Dreamscape dihedral, and then traversing right to the arete at either the first or second bolt of Shadowdancer. The original Matt Samet guide stated that the lower traverse was more difficult, yet the error-ridden Falcon Guide claims the higher traverse is the more difficult variation.

Location

Shadowdancer is the next arete/prow to the right of The Prow. However, the route actually begins in the dihedral crack (a route called Dreamscape) immediately to the left of the arete. Climb up Dreamscape until level with either the first or second bolt, and traverse right.

Protection

Bolts. Bring either a stick clip or gear for the first section of Dreamscape.
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
An amazing line and it actually has holds, most of which are pretty good by cochiti standards. Seems like the lower traverse is the more difficult and more classic way of doing the route. I thought the moves on the arete between the first and second bolt were some of the harder moves on the route.

Interestingly I dug a bullet out of the rock just below the anchors. I guess someone thought the anchors made good target practice. May 2, 2011
Jean  
my favorite route at cochiti. definitely not chipped! (and i should know...)
just to the right, in the slab, is "terminal ferocity" 11d and super fun. Sep 1, 2008
Definitely awesome face and arete moves on cool rock! Dreamscape is a cool crack line, too, with a brief and bouldery start...An even better (maybe the best) finger crack for the area is Let It Bleed, which is a tad harder and more sustained. I don't even know if it is at all accessible anymore. It was sketchy when I did it 12 years ago. Oh yeah...Fainting Imam is hard and trad and good too! Jan 24, 2008
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
This route is not manufactured.

Chipped holds are easy to spot, especially in dark rock like that. Furthermore, chipped holds aren't sharp like those on Shadowdancer. Oct 9, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I'm curious what others have to say, but I've done this route a couple of times, and I never noticed any manufactured holds. The chipped holds I've noticed at Cochiti are all really obvious (new Age Nightmare, Olympian Wall rtes). If any of the holds on this are chipped, the chipper did an excellent job of disguising their work.

I agree that many of the pockets at Cochiti seem "too good to be true". However, a lot of the easier routes here also have these "too good to be true" pockets. I think its doubtful somebody would put in the effort to chip and artfully disguise their handywork on a 2 star 5.10. So if the easier routes have these unbelievable-but-probably-natural-holds, why can't some of the hard routes have them too? Jul 10, 2007
although a gorgeous line, manufactured holds keep this one from being 4 stars... Jul 3, 2007