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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Adam Read, John Duran, Dan Parks
Page Views: 374 total · 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route is a bit schizophrenic. I could understand an argument for 3 stars, or an argument for a bomb. The rock is very good, and there are numerous sections of great climbing, and its one of the longest routes at Cochiti, but the route is split up by several too-good rests that detract from the continuity of the line. The hardware situation is best described as a botch-job, with numerous sketchy bolts and no anchor. If the hardware situation was addressed, it would be a very good route.

Begin on a nice flat boulder that offers a nice seat for booting up. A bit of wandering right, then back left on good holds leads to the first, high bolt. Traverse out right past the bolt, then up over the slight bulge on good pockets to some tricky moves involving a shallow seam, to a good stance with large, unusual jugs. The route steepens a bit as you slap up the rounded prow, eventually arriving at a large, awkward ledge on the right. From here it may be possible to execute an akward mantle onto the jutting ledge on the right, but I believe the 'proper' line is to head back left onto the prow where good, hard-to-see holds lead up to easier ground and the final bolt. From here, top out or lower off the single bolt.

Location

On the far right/south end of the South Cliffband, beyond the rockslide. After traversing the rockslide, continue right/south past 3 bolted routes before coming to a broad wall split by a beautiful veritcal crack. The wall has a bolted route on either side of the crack. This is the Olympian Wall. Another 30 feet right is this route, Sanadine Dream, which is the first bolted route after the Olympian wall. The first bolt is a bit hard to see.

Protection

8 Somewhat suspicious bolts, no anchor. The last bolt has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off with your heart in your throat.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Jemez Rock mentions that the last 3 bolts (of 8) of this route had been chopped. When I did the route in late June 2007 there were plentiful bolts at the end of the route, except for the lack of an anchor. There are two types of bolts on this route, so it would seem that some of the original SMC-hangered bolts were chopped, and then someone re-bolted the route with some mysterious type of galvanized eye-bolts. The bottom half of the route still has some very old, sketchy looking bolts, and the newer bolts aren't too inspiring either (although I did lower off one of them).

The point is, the route is not missing any bolts, but its not especially safe either. There is no anchor. Jun 26, 2007

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