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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Leslie Coon, Richard Faust
Page Views: 61 total · 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 19, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

While the various guides bag on this route, it isn't too bad, has all natural holds and gets shade until late in the day. A bit inconsistent as the first three moves are the hardest, but things remain interesting for the first 20 ft. A hard start with a tweaky first move utilizing a shallow but positive left hand mono, leads to the first bolt. From here big sequential pulls on good pockets leads past the next few closely spaced bolts. At the fourth bolt the rock quality deteriorates and the lichen increases, but the difficulty decreases making it easy to top out and downclimb back to the 4th bolt.

Location

This is the first route you come too on the South Cliffband. It is West Facing, so gets more shade than many of the other routes.

Protection

4 Bolts. There are no anchors however the top is easy enough that is isn't too bad to top out then downclimb back to the 4th bolt. From here the bolts are spaced close enough together that you can go in direct to the lower bolt and clean the upper ones. Then grab the bottom one or two with a stickclip.

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