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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,207 total, 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This squeeze-job makes for an enjoyable climb if you can ignore the contrivance of the bolt job. Presumably the route is "designed" to avoid various obvious jugs near the right arete, and the obvious splitter crack at the top, thus achieving the desried 5.12a grade. However, most normal climbers will use all of these obvious features, which are well within reach of the bolts, bringing the grade to the much more manageable 11b-ish range.

Begin as for The Prow, but avoid the obvious cracks to the right and head straight up the thin face. The crux hits on a thin patch of pockets getting from the 3rd bolt to the 4th. From here a series of difficult-to-ignore huecos head up 2 feet right of the bolt line. These huecos tend to lead the climber onto the arete, which is surely "off", but again, hard to ignore. It is possible to clip all of the lead bolts from teh arete. Head back left at some arbitrary point that is surely critical to the grade of the route. A splitter crack on the right can be used at this point for further assistance just below the anchor.

If you want to preserve the 12a grade, this is a 1 star contrived pile, but if you follow the natural line, this is a nice variation to the prow that adds some good techncial moves and avoids the intimidating roof finish.

Location

Immediately right of Crackerjack and left of The Prow.

Protection

6 bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
 
Ditto Mono and Jason: I would give this climb the old 'bomb' rating if you were to pay any attention to the guidebooks (which unfortunately, I did), but using the right side of the climb makes for fun 5.11 climbing.

Apparently, it can also provide entertaining photo ops. Sep 8, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.11b/c
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.11b/c
Couldn't agree with Mono's description more. The entire way up this route, I found myself using the arete, but thinking that I was somehow off route because using the arete certainly isn't 12a. If you follow the natural line, this route is quite fun though. Sep 7, 2008