Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade, Doug Pandorf
Page Views: 1,233 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 8, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the converging double cracks for about 15 feet. Both are splitter, and neither provide solid jams. After they converge, deal with the sustained tiny finger crack (crux) for about 25 feet. This crack is generally too small for fingers, but the offset faces provide lieback opportunities. The crack finally bends right and get steeper and wider as you reach slightly overhung hands jams to the progressively wider and steeper finish.

Combining face and crack techniques is probably best for conquering your dreamscape.

Location

Between Shadowdancer and Another Lichen Nightmare on the north-facing face right of the obvious (and classic) Prow (5.11).

Protection

Single cams to 3" and plenty of nuts should suffice for leading. Top anchor options include Another Lichen Nightmare's bolted anchor about 15' to the left, Shadowdancer's bolted anchor 15' to the right, or big trees about 30' back from the cliff's edge (and a bunch of cacti for your rope to get into between the trees and the cliff).

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