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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Adam Read
Page Views: 757 total, 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This brilliant chunk of stone features two distinct sections of climbing, highlighted by an extremely devious boulder problem crux. Begin left of the arete on a nice flat boulder.

Stick clip the first bolt, then traverse right onto the hanging face using the obvious large pocket. This looks much more difficult than it is. Continue up along the face on relatively easy (5.10+), ultra-classic pockets, occasionally groping left around the arete. At mid-height the line heads right to a series of diagonal rails, and finally a huge pocket that offers a final rest before the crux.

At this point you may be thinking the route feels rather easy for 11d... Extreme body english, smearing, slopers, pinches, gastons and other gymnastic maneuvers surmount the next 8 feet of featureless stone. Once at the fifth bolt, easier terrain leads to the sub-par anchor

Location

This route is on the South end of the South Cliffband, beyond/right/south of the rockslide. This is the 7th bolted route encountered after the rockslide, immediately right of Sanadine Dream. Also, CS is the next route left of Strange Attractor, which ascends an obvious overhanging arete that juts out over the trail.

Protection

Bolts to 2 bolt anchor. The anchor could be improved. It currently consists of two bolts each with a single quick link.

Photos

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Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Beware, page 108 of the Jemez Rock guidebook has a picture with the caption:

"Peter Prandoni on Crystal Suppository 5.11d"

However, the climber is actually on Strange Attractor (5.11c?). Crystal Suppository is the next route left. The text of the guidebook correctly identifies the two routes, and this info agrees with Samet's "Sport Climbing in New Mexico". Jun 26, 2007