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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Adam Read
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This engaging route offers three distinct sections of climbing, beginning with fun, easy jugs that end at a no-hands rest in the open book. From here, surmount the first crux over the steep bulge with either a huge crank from a good right-hand pocket, or use a more delicate sequence of side-pull crimps and sequential footwork.

Good jugs offer a well-earned shake. Traverse a bit right on stellar pockets, then up to a blind reach over the bulge to a sinker two-finger pocket. This move would be trivial if you could see the pocket. This stance offers a final shake before the second crux of rounded nobs and crimps on the mossy slab. Precise balance lead to jugs in the obvious horizontal crack, and easier pockets and nobs lead to the anchor.

Location

This is the furthest right/south/east route on the Cochiti South Cliffband. Continue right/SE along the cliff base beyond Shadowdancer, across the rockslide. Pickup the cliff-base trail again, and follow to the last bolted route before the cliff peters out.

Protection

Bolts. Two Bolt Anchor with NO lowering hardware (just two bolts with Metolius Hangers). Its possible to scramble up to the anchor to clean your gear and/or setup a TR, but its a real pain in the a$$.

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