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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Horak & Dave Baltz 1986
Page Views: 1,668 total, 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

The Prow is the ultra-classic 5.11 of the South Cliffband. Distiguished by the large, triagular overhanging arete that makes up the last 10 feet of the route, the Prow is obvious from the approach trail.

This route is the antithesis of sustained. Beginning up a low-angled, rounded arete on sinker jugs, a good rest below the crook in the arete provides one last shake before the final sprint up the left side of the wildly leaning arete.

Location

This is the 6th bolted line from the downclimb. There are 3 routes that climb on or near this feature. The Prow climbs the middle line, right on the arete.

Protection

"4 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor (two chains and one cold-shut); the first three bolts ascend the low-angled arete and the fourth is on the left-hand side (out of view here) of the upper arete (the prow). Rock Climbing New Mexico states 6 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor--this is incorrect." (Jason Hundhausen)

Photos

David Baltz
Albuquerque, New Mexico
David Baltz   Albuquerque, New Mexico
This route was retro-bolted. Paul Horak originally led it on natural pro with one out pin on the prow itself. I was a little ticked that bolts were placed on the lower slab as it protects well with natural pro. Still, it is a stellar route! Aug 14, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
The Prow: 4 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor (two chains and one cold-shut); the first three bolts ascend the low-angled arete and the fourth is on the left-hand side (out of view here) of the upper arete (the prow). Rock Climbing New Mexico states 6 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor--this is incorrect.
Incredible climb though, absolutely a must-do at Cochiti! Aug 17, 2007