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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Adam Read, Jean DeLataillade, Leslie Coon
Page Views: 60 total · 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route begins as for Finger in the Socket, on the prominent, square-cut arete. Ascend juggy flakes and pockets on the steep left side of the arete, reaching around the arete easily to clip. It may be possible to slab up the right side along the bolts, but it doesn't look too fun. A good rest atop the slab/arete offers the last chance to bail onto the apparently easier Finger In the Socket.

From the rest continue left up the steepening wall on small but positive pockets. Take a final shake before the thin, sharp crux on small crimps with poor feet. A hard-to-see four-inger bucket delivers you to an easy mantle and slabby finish.

Location

This is the first bolted route right/south of the rockslide. This route shares the first four bolts with Finger in the Socket, then moves left, passing two more bolts, before moving back right to the share anchors with Finger In the Socket.

Protection

6 Bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor. One of the few routes on this seection of cliff with a quality anchor.

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