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Routes in South Cliffband

Acid Rain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Another Lichen Nightmare S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crackerjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Suppository S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dreamscape T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolic S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger in the Socket S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusion Dissolution S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Just Say No to Crack S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Leslie's Little Fingers (Atsa) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Prow, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sanadine Dream S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shadowdancer S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unnamed S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 47 total, 0/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Oct 9, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This route receives a lot of attention due to its moderate grade and easy access. Its very easy to set up a toprope on this line. The climbing, however, is fairly awkward in spots despite the grade.

The route begins up easy blocks to a low-profile arete. If toproping, its easy to stem up the dihedral to the right. This off-route variation goes at about 5.8, so this can be a good option if you have a lot of beginners with you. Leaders will want to stay on the slabby left side of the arete until it starts to overhang. At the overhang, turn the arete to the right, and continue up the relatively easy face for 15 feet. Just before the top, ascend a tricky bulge with high steps and awkward groping around the arete.

Location

Third bolted route right (S) of the downclimb, or the route left of Just Say No to Crack.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
This route is in a serious need for upgrading all of the lead bolts. If you do lead it in its current condition, be sure to hang instead of falling. Aug 24, 2008