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Routes in The Left Side

Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gaiters T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Andy Beekman?
Page Views: 495 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the obvious chimney to the right of What's Wrong With Parents Today. If you're there & have a desire for one more route, this can be interesting. It is somewhat reminiscent of the chimney pitch of Orange Julius with a bit of the chimney pitches of Bowels of the Owls & Casual Route.

If this is your FA, please accept our apologies.

Start up the cleft, pro is deep in the back for the 1st half of the chimney. Above, you can use the crack behind, but the face holds within get better. Don't fall in there, the rock is rough. There are still a few creaking holds in there. Then, you get the funky, less-protected, awkward, RFD above. The crux is high, near the top. Rap off bolts on What's Wrong With Parents Today.

We recommend you don't bring a nice shirt/jacket for this one.

Location

This is on the right side of the Left Side, just right of What's Wrong With Parents Today.

Protection

Cams to #4 Camalot, wires. You may be able to use a #4 Big Bro.

Photos

HughC  
Fun, but bit persnickety regarding gear. Lower chimney climbs at 5.5ish and is easy to protect. Above the chimney the gear is there, but you may want to have some Totems to protect the crux. We had an old book and didn't know its PG13- either that or my partner likes to see me shake in my boots I didn't have the right gear, and let's just say, moms were probably covering their children's ears over at the Riveria from my expletives. Egads! Yet another spanking from a BC trad 5.9! 2 days ago

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