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Routes in The Left Side

Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gaiters T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas and Mike McGill
Page Views: 105 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route 1. In the center of the cliff, follow a corner up to an obvious, short left-facing corner. Gain a ledge and make a cool face moves left past a bolt to a short right-facing corner. Follow cracks up to the anchor.

Protection

Small to mid-size gear and a bolt at the crux.

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
If swinging from one crack system to another by a jug constituted .10a, then the given rating may be justified. As it is though, this climb is ridiculously easy for the grade listed. Having just finished Bihedral before jumping on this, I found both climbs to feel similar in difficulty. It may be harder if your shorter, but if you're 5'10" or over and can do a pull up, you're good to go!

While the bottom half wasn't that great, the top half was pretty fun, and I'll give it a star for that. Jan 24, 2014
Rich C
  5.10-
Rich C  
  5.10-
Just wondering if the FA was done on all gear and the bolt was added later by someone else? If so, then why? Mar 22, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
This climb felt very easy. After doing it (without knowing what what climb we had done), we thought it might be 5.9. There are certainly lots of trad 9s that are harder. I'm not so familiar with sport ratings, but in any case, this is way easier than Calling All Trad Climbers, which is rated 10a on this site.

I like the fact that the climbs on this wall are "mixed", with bolts only where they are useful (although What's Wrong With Parents could, perhaps, be done with only one bolt at the higher crux). Jan 1, 2003
Don't Ask...I got to ask.? What were you guys thinking? Sep 15, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This is a fun route with a wild and tricky crux at the bolt. The key for me was a small foothold for my left foot which let me crank up left to a finger crack in a small corner. I belayed from the top anchors instead of lowering. Pro up to a #2 Camalot. Aug 3, 2002