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Routes in The Left Side

Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gaiters T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 182 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. This route follow a series of short corners just left of What's Wrong With Parents Today. Follow short corners with good gear up to a steep section with a bolt. Crank past the bolt and gain ledge below a steep, short finger crack. Power up the crack and angle left past the crack following good cracks, with good gear to the anchor.

Protection

Small to mid-size gear, plus one bolt.

Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
This is a fun route with two strenuous cruxes. I felt both cruxes were harder than 10a; perhaps 10b to 10c. These cruxes were harder than Bihedral Arete (10a), Gish (10a), and perhaps harder than Don't Ask (10b). My partner flashed Bihedral Arete and Don't Ask, and hung several times at both cruxes on this pitch. The first crux at the bolt involves a step left and then a hard crank past a steep headwall. There's a key handhold out left to supplement the marginal handholds directly above the headwall. The second crux is a committing overhanging finger crack. Save a yellow and green Alien for pro here. Make sure your belayer keeps all the slack out of the system or you could hit a ledge below the finger crack if you peel from the top of the crux. Power layback up the finger crack, then make a strenuous move up and right to another good crack. A stem with the left foot and a wicked abs crunch were required to make the reach. Shorter people may have to dyno this move. Continue up to a roof (I placed a #1 Camalot under the roof as a directional anchor), then angle left and up to the anchors atop Don't Ask. I belayed my partner from the top anchors instead of lowering. Pro up to a #2 Camalot. Aug 3, 2002
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
This is a fun route with THREE strenuous cruxes, if you climb the final roof at the obvious crack. It's about the same difficulty as the other cruxes and is easier than it looks. I thought the lower cruxes were harder than they looked. You'll want a #3/blue Camalot for the roof and a few more medium cams to back it up and to protect the second above the roof. Above the roof, angle right to the anchors for What's Wrong With Parents. You may be able to lower from those bolts, but I had too much rope drag to lower.

This climb felt way harder than Don't Ask (just to the left) and Bihdedral Arete. If those are 10a, I'd call this 10b. I thought this was the best of the three adjacent climbs, Don't Ask, Calling All Trad Climbers, and What's Wrong With Parents, although we almost didn't climb it, because it looked trivial from the ground. Jan 1, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Repeated this route at the end of the day today. Posting again to draw attention to this little known sub-area of Bihedral. These routes are fun, get lots of sun, and, a rarity these days, are minimally bolted. I like it. This time, the second crux of Calling all Trad-Climbers felt pretty easy, although definitely intimidating. One layback move onto a high step to reach the jug. Apr 3, 2005
J1.
Boulder, Colorado
J1.   Boulder, Colorado
Definitely one of my favorite routes on the wall. Great gear and good moves...plus as mentioned above you can also keep climbing up through the overhanging roof above and end up on What's Wrong With Parents anchors. Makes for a more direct and exciting finish. Maybe 5.9 through the roof? Mar 12, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
Me and my partner both think the first crux is harder than the second one. Mar 29, 2013

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