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Routes in The Left Side

Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gaiters T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
Page Views: 141 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route is located down and left of the main Bihedral Rock. See Rossiter's guide, page 96, route one. Climb up a short corner with two bolts on the right side of the rock and just left of a chimney. Reach a steep section and crank through the roof (crux) and up to a ramp. Clip a bolt and make cool moves up the arete/face on great holds past the last bolt and into a nice crack system. Continue up to the anchors.

Protection

Four bolts plus small to mid-size gear.

Photos

Anchor links were fixed today. Feb 13, 2016
Jon Lachelt
Fort Collins, CO
 
Jon Lachelt   Fort Collins, CO
 
A really fun route... but maybe my perspective was skewed by the adrenaline. Went up this w/o reading the info so didn't have any gear with me. Pretty scary at one point moving past the 3rd bolt since I wasn't quite sure which way to go at first (go right, BTW). I actually didn't find any of the moves very hard, just heady when I was run-out. Dec 21, 2009
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.11a
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.11a
Perhaps, the answer is that we're the kids of the parents of yesterday ;) Nice route, 3 interesting cruxes, above the 2nd bolt, you can go L or R. L works. Wires & cams to #1 Camalot worked. Interesting variety of moves. Thanks for putting in the route! Nov 3, 2006
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
The roof crux is a grunt. I placed a red Alien at the lip. The higher crux, moving right, was perplexing and fun. I'd call this about 10c if it were trad. I rarely can onsight 10c trad cleanly in Eldo or Boulder Canyon, but was pretty solid on this. Jan 1, 2003