Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: a chipmunk?
Page Views: 637 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 18, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023 Details

Description

This is a short line just left of Most of the Time that connects bits of cracks. It may have been done previously, it seemed fairly clean. Since it wasn't listed in Bob D'Antonio's latest, pretty guidebook, we'll post it here. For now, we'll name it in your honor, Jackie.

Start up easy terrain. About 20-25 feet up at the bit of crack that angles left, find a short crux with slightly insecure feet protected by a small Alien. Continue up easier terrain up to a ledge that holds snow with a bush. Here, you can go up the offwidth created by the large, perched block (which didn't move when Deb pushed out on it from above) or traverse a few feet right into Most of the Time. Then continue up past horizontals (#1 Camalot & #3 Camalot). Place a tiny cam (#0 TCU or black Alien) and traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor used for Most of the Time, Slight of Hand, Don't Ask, Calling All Trad Climbers.

With a 60m rope, belay from above & then rap.

Location

This is left a few feet from Most of the Time.

Protection

Cams from #0 TCU to #3 Camalot. For cluckers like me, extra #0.75 & #1 Camalots came in handy.

Photos