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Routes in The Left Side

Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gaiters T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A climb with a definite balancy and thin crux sequence and some more moderate climbing.
Start on the ground in indistinct but moderate terrain protecting wherever possible, with an eye to reaching the distinctive climbing. The target is a few bolts on a steep face near a "wrinkle" or perhaps you might call it a shallow seam in the rock. As you reach the hard moves, you can clip a bolt before committing to some thin and off-balance moves. The climb is probably honest 5.11b. Continue and the difficulty eases. Head up and slightly left over moderate terrain with trad gear again to the shared, bolted anchor as for the 2 climbs on either side.

Location

The route is a variation of sorts between 'Most Of The Time' and 'Don't Ask'. It may share some of the indistinct terrain down low and merges up high to a shared (bolted) anchor.

Protection

A rack of gear to 2" including nuts and cams + a few draws.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
An ok route, but the bolt at the crux would be better located if it was to the right a bit. At its current location, you are looking at swinging fall into a slight offset. Probably wouldn't kill you but probably not fun either.

Given the bolt location, I thought it went straight up, but the holds run out and you end up looking at a bulging, smooth mantel well above the bolt. Ended up down climbing and going to the right in a fairly pumped state, which felt kind of exciting for some reason. Nov 13, 2010
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
This is called Slight of Hand. FA: Bob D & Greg Hand. Mar 28, 2010

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