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Routes in The Left Side
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Calling All Trad Climbers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Don't Ask T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gaiters T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Most of the Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slight of Hand T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twisted T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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What's Wrong with Parents Today T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 70 ft |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand |
| Page Views: | 109 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 11, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
A climb with a definite balancy and thin crux sequence and some more moderate climbing.
Start on the ground in indistinct but moderate terrain protecting wherever possible, with an eye to reaching the distinctive climbing. The target is a few bolts on a steep face near a "wrinkle" or perhaps you might call it a shallow seam in the rock. As you reach the hard moves, you can clip a bolt before committing to some thin and off-balance moves. The climb is probably honest 5.11b. Continue and the difficulty eases. Head up and slightly left over moderate terrain with trad gear again to the shared, bolted anchor as for the 2 climbs on either side.
Start on the ground in indistinct but moderate terrain protecting wherever possible, with an eye to reaching the distinctive climbing. The target is a few bolts on a steep face near a "wrinkle" or perhaps you might call it a shallow seam in the rock. As you reach the hard moves, you can clip a bolt before committing to some thin and off-balance moves. The climb is probably honest 5.11b. Continue and the difficulty eases. Head up and slightly left over moderate terrain with trad gear again to the shared, bolted anchor as for the 2 climbs on either side.
Location
The route is a variation of sorts between 'Most Of The Time' and 'Don't Ask'. It may share some of the indistinct terrain down low and merges up high to a shared (bolted) anchor.
Golden, CO
Given the bolt location, I thought it went straight up, but the holds run out and you end up looking at a bulging, smooth mantel well above the bolt. Ended up down climbing and going to the right in a fairly pumped state, which felt kind of exciting for some reason. Nov 13, 2010