Beadwagon
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02494, -116.15472 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Dave Evans, and Jim Angione, November 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,394 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a fun and varied face climb, with one short, steep, strenuous crux down low; some easy, exposed mantles higher; and then a balancy move over an overhang (second crux) onto a large traverse dike. It is in a shady location. There is good protection on the hard moves, but some long runouts on easy ground. This route could be considered a direct start to the upper part of Second Thoughts.



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