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> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Echo Rock
> Echo Rock - E Face
> Echo Rock - E Face (L…
Igor Prince of Poodles
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Echo Rock - E Face (Left)
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Bambi Meets Godzilla T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beadwagon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Closed on Mondays T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Finger Food T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Frumunda Cheese T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gumby Saves Bambi T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hex Marks the Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Igor Prince of Poodles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Lot Lizard TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Menace, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mother Trucker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stinkbug, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Charles Cole & Karen Peil, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,758 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Will S on Nov 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This bolted face route, immediately right of the Finger Food crack is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.
Protection
Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.
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