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Routes in Echo Rock - E Face (Left)

Bambi Meets Godzilla T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beadwagon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed on Mondays T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Food T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frumunda Cheese T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Saves Bambi T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Igor Prince of Poodles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Lot Lizard TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mother Trucker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Charles Cole & Karen Peil, 1991
Page Views: 770 total, 7/month
Shared By: Will S on Nov 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This bolted face route, immediately right of Finger Food, is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.

Location

Immediately right of Finger Food.

Protection

Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.

Photos

RTM
RTM  
The thing clocked me in me melon - it felt substancial!I remember thinking "the only hold on the route, and he rips it off". Prolly spent the rest of the day bouldering after that. Feb 28, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.11c PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c PG13
Yes, still climbable at the given grade - it sounds like your friend gave you bad beta. Feb 22, 2012
RTM
RTM  
A long time ago (mid '90s?), a friend of mine went to climb this and ripped a substancial hold from the middle of the route. We weren't sure if it was still climbable after that. Is it still climbable? Feb 22, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.11c PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c PG13
Thin and insecure through the lower portion with some tenuous clips, overall a great test of footwork and body positioning. If leading consider a crashpad and/or a single locking biner on the 1st bolt.

Hand-drilled ground-up from stances on the first ascent. Feb 21, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11+ PG13
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
  5.11+ PG13
I've led this twice now. There is a risk of groundfall while clipping the second bolt, but it is also a pretty secure stance (secure per the route). An excellent route nonetheless. Feb 21, 2012