Second Thoughts
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.02494, -116.15472 |
| FA: | Herb Laeger and Dick Saume, December 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,296 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is primarily a face climb, although you wouldn't guess this from the ground. Start up the south buttress of Echo Rock in the same spot at T.S. Special (covered in the Echo Rock - South Face section of Mountain Project).
Instead of going up the prow as for T.S. Special, move right and around the corner, following a low angle dihedral. The dihedral soon becomes an ominous looking bombay chimney. At this point, move right and belay. Then climb up and left past three bolts (crux) onto the prow, then continue up a corner to the top of the buttress.



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