The Stinkbug
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02494, -116.15472 |
| FA: | Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Brian Sillasen, 5/1986. |
| Page Views: | 402 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Apr 17, 2022 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start up a sharp, thin, right-facing flake to reach a splitter hand crack. Make a steep rightward traverse (wild!) to reach a tips crack that ascends past a dike to the top. The unfortunate grainy start and chossy finish do detract and dishearten, even though the loose bits come before and after the real climbing. The business sections are clean, steep, and fantastic.
Long anchor extension is needed for a big, flat boulder that is about eight feet back from the lip, or for another equally far away boulder to the side.
To descend, walk off the back and down to climber's left, via the obvious rock gully visible behind the climb when coming up the approach scramble.
Location
This climb is located near the middle of Echo Rock's east face, to the left of Closed On Mondays. The latter has a start with a similar description in books, up cracks that soon also shape into a right-facing flake to reach a hand crack, but finishes very differently, so take care not to err onto the wrong route.



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