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Routes in Echo Rock - E Face (Left)

Bambi Meets Godzilla T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beadwagon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed on Mondays T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Food T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Frumunda Cheese T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Saves Bambi T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Igor Prince of Poodles T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Lot Lizard TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Menace, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mother Trucker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Second Thoughts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett, Alan Roberts, Al Hoblitt 1975
Page Views: 4,748 total, 32/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 15, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the NE face of Echo Rock and approximately in the middle. It's an obvious, slightly s-curving crack that is quite long. The route begins behind a pine tree. It's rated 5.8, but my partner and I felt the upper portion of the crack was 5.9.

Protection

Standard rack. Make sure you have your large cams along.
AMB
AMB  
We did this route on one of my first trips to Josh. We weren't very familiar with the area and were looking for Power Line, which we had just heard was an obvious crack behind Echo Rock. Walking back there, we figured this had to be it, the most obvious line in the area. It was a few years later, after the updated Wolfe guide came out that I realized where Power Line actually was. Cams weren't around then, and I led the whole route, breaking it into three short pitches. I guess it seemed harder than 5.7 (what Power Line was supposed to be rated), but we didn't know any better then. I never reported it to Randy, assuming someone else had already done it, but I guess not. Sep 25, 2016
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
The 1986 edition of Randy Vogel's guidebook (the one with the glittery pink-purple cover, it was the 80s after all) briefly credited me with the FA of this route, as I had climbed it with Mingo Morvin in the spring of 1982 and reported it to Randy. It's such an obvious line I wasn't a bit surprised to learn it had been done previously. Even though we didn't do the FA, it appears the name we gave it has stuck. I remember thinking it was about at the top end of 5.8, or maybe easy 5.9. Jan 26, 2015
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
  5.9
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
  5.9
My 2 cents for people who are climbing at the grade is be OK with running out sections. I'm just getting into leading 9's and needed to run out a few sections. You can sew up this thing but it's a long climb so you have to preserve some pcs for up top! Enjoy. Jan 26, 2015
Canon
  5.8+
Canon  
  5.8+
The off-width section is very secure but grunty. The whole climb offers great pods to stick .5-2 camalots in big cracks. The crux is the hand crack up high with GREAT hands and not-so-great feet. Bring lots of cams. Nov 17, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8+
Another fun route. The hand jams just keep going and going and going. I felt the crux was the offwidth at the bottom. After the offwidth, the rest of the climbing should feel mellow. May 8, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.8
I took a double set of cams (BD C4s): finger sizes through #3 + (1) #4. I used most pieces save for some of the smaller sizes. The #4 was placed but in a spot that would've accepted a smaller piece above or below. Fun route. Oct 31, 2011
More like godzilla (funky trough at the beginning) meets bambi (easy hand crack at the top). A decent route due to the length and setting. But that trough was just plain stupid. Mar 11, 2007
outdooreric
Bishop, CA
  5.9
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
  5.9
The cave can be avoided by easy slab climbing outside it. Protection in the second section (the deep OW) is located in a secondary crack on the right wall (hidden inside).

The descent is hiking off right. Not too bad, but some downclimbing between boulders is to be expected.

The pitch is more like 160 feet, so bring plenty of gear. Doubles from fingers to fist and an optional #4 camalot with a few longer runners. Feb 11, 2007
Is the descent obvious for this route? Thx Nov 19, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9-
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9-
Found lots of Godzilla on this climb, but very little Bambi. Interesting climbing, tough crux for a 5.8 imo - better know how to jam! Apr 8, 2006
Taryn
San Diego, CA
  5.8+
Taryn   San Diego, CA
  5.8+
This climb starts in a cave (!), and has four distinct sections (which just gets harder and harder): cave (easy scramble), deep off-width crack with smaller crack inside (hard to place deep gear), funky crack with stemming moves, and HARD curving hand crack with no feet. I watched a guy struggle on this section before doing the climb myself, and thought "why is he taking so long?" Now I know! I'd say that top section is harder than 5.8. Fun, but I was definitely bambi in the "bambi meets godzilla" scenario! Feb 17, 2006