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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd
Page Views: 691 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Sep 11, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This is a loose, poorly protected crack/face near the left end of the main AFPA wall.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.7+
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.7+
This is a fun route - I thought it was better than Which Bitch to the right. There are plenty of solid gear placements and one bolt - an R rating is not warranted. Dec 8, 2012
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7
I believe the bolts are for the arete route to the left, although the first one can come in handy. I disagree with the 'R' rating as it stands today. Perhaps it has cleaned up over time, but the pro is fine. Dec 30, 2007
seamstress
  5.7
seamstress  
  5.7
There are two bolts on the lower portion - so "runout" isn't accurate. Before the first bolt, you can get a small cam in the left crack which is out of your line of sight, so peer around and check it out. There are a couple of times when you have to step left and it feels a little insecure, so probably not the best climb for your first 5.7 lead. The second half is fun where the rock separates and you can stem or lie back or wedge in a body part. This and other APFA Rock climbs are good for a cold day. Dec 28, 2007