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Routes in South Face
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All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boulder Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Down the Highway TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Music with my Friends T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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On the Road Again T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rip Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03948, -116.19463 |
| FA: | Randy McDonald and Don Wilson |
| Page Views: | 1,374 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Apr 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climbs the poorly protected face to the left of "Andromeda Strain". I really can't see any way to safely protect this climb. There was a bolt, but it is gone, Start near the left side of the face and do some lieback moves then move up friction to a scoop/hole. Move up a shallow corner/groove with a gold pocket, then a shallow , right curving finger crack leads to a ledge beneath a headwall. A sheered off 1/4" bolt and additional hole will be seen. A horizontal crack/groove moves left. Move up on to this. A hidden undercling hold is useful. Once on this horizontal, climb the thin face above, following the line of least resistance. This section, to me is the crux. Move up and right to a slightly overhanging Crack/corner (5.9/10-) to the top.
It's a good route, but would be a scary, dangerous lead.
Protection
Standard rack, pick what looks like it might work. The cracks are sparse and flared. The bolt is gone. The upper crack will take good pro, but that's not much help. Safer to top rope. Gear will have to be used for anchors and some blocks can be tied off. Long slings will be needed to extend the anchor, out over the climb.
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