Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Davis, Don O'Kelley and B. Andre, November 1971
Page Views: 1,811 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Start to the right of the crack, face climbing past a bolt, to join the crack which is followed to the top. One star out of five.

Location

The obvious crack between McDonald-Wilson and

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches including the belay

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. Feb 10, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great! (Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up! Mar 1, 2004
Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb. Oct 1, 2004
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area. Oct 16, 2006
seamstress
  5.9
seamstress  
  5.9
I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9. Dec 28, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7
It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less. Dec 30, 2007
The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile. Dec 2, 2013
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just tried to lead this and couldn't get off the ground. The start feels 5.9, no pro. Nov 10, 2014