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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dave Davis, Don O'Kelley and B. Andre, November 1971
Page Views: 1,598 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Start to the right of the crack, face climbing past a bolt, to join the crack which is followed to the top. One star out of five.

Location

The obvious crack between McDonald-Wilson and

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches including the belay

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
Just tried to lead this and couldn't get off the ground. The start feels 5.9, no pro. Nov 10, 2014
The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile. Dec 2, 2013
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7
It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less. Dec 30, 2007
seamstress
  5.9
seamstress  
  5.9
I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9. Dec 28, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area. Oct 16, 2006
Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb. Oct 1, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great! (Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up! Mar 1, 2004
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. Feb 10, 2004