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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rob Stahl, John Wolfe & Dave Stahl, November 1972
Page Views: 698 total, 4/month
Shared By: Locker on Feb 13, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is deceptively difficult for a 5.6 (Or I was off route which is certainly possible). But at the start, moving to a small roof, moving left found me wondering about it's rating. Once around the roof and it felt 5.5/5.6. The best part of this route is the start. It can be done moving up from the left side as well. But that would take the fun away on a pretty uninteresting climb. Something to do while in the area doing the better climbs. But not one to seek out.

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Alex Peterson
Kamas, Utah
Alex Peterson   Kamas, Utah
Crux is at the bottom. You can pro it, but then moving up past the roof can feel awkward and sketchy. I did this one three different ways at the start. Around the left makes it a 5.5. Straight up is a 5.6, but tough to protect some smearing moves over the bulges. Go right (right under the big roof) then you can pro it and it is still a 5.6 (just very awkward). Finished by setting up as a TR for the kids. Very nice warm winter climb. Nov 17, 2012