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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 806 total · 5/month
Shared By: Locker on Nov 21, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

the start is super easy and progresses to a better climb. Beware of the dead tree at the start as it could pose a slight problem if one should fall upon it's broken branch... There is some fun stemming,edging and face work on this one...Not a true "Crack" per Jtree style... Wide, flairing, with an occassional finger/small hand jam. Deffinatly worth doing if you are planning on doing the others on AFPA formation...

Protection

Strickly trad on this one. Small to medium rack... Many possibilities for setting an anchor on top... Especially in the medium range...

If by chance you plan to TR the route, real long static line would be very usefull...

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DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Nice route with a utilizing a variety of techniques. May 26, 2010
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Placement is thin in some areas so be aware of that. I followed so I thought this was super super fun. Stem moves, with some somewhat offwidth chimney moves just awhole lot to offer on this climb. Apr 7, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.9 R
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.9 R
The climbing is decent but protection is a bit sparse and sketchy in places. Due to the tiered nature of the route almost any leader fall would be bad. You could make a case for an R rating on this one. Dec 8, 2012
Good route with really nice stemming work. Pro is tricky and not always the best, as noted before. Note if setting this up for TR, a 60m will only reach if you walk a few meters up the initial groove to start the belay. Dec 2, 2013
M Meyers  
 
Fun stemming. Small C3s were nice for a couple spots. Nov 19, 2017

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