Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,286 total · 17/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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This route is on a boulder that is separate from AFPA rock, but easily visible from the road. Starts off with an overhang, crack then goes vertical. Crack offers good jams, and features on the outside of the crack offer good edges.


This crack takes good gear. Small cams or nuts work at the bottom. Medium size cams work higher up. Set the anchor in a horizontal crack(takes small to medium cams).


A not-so hidden gem. A classic in the rough. Simply one of the best short routes in Josh, bar none. Need I say more? Mar 20, 2003
I agree that this is clearly not a 3 star route. I also, however, agree that 0 stars should not be a bomb. I gave Nolina Crack at White Cliffs of Dover 0 stars, in order to keep it in perspective with what 1 star means (to me anyways). I don't think it's a bomb, it's a perfectly fine route but thoroughly unnoteworthy. Mar 21, 2003
A.J. After a riveting experience on Tennis Shoe Crack which of these 6 star J-Tree classics of equivalent grade would you recommend: Fluff Boy, Funky Dung, or Wake Me When It's Over?

Apr 1, 2003
Routes of this length see frequent unplanned bivies, particularly during the shorter winter days from November through February. I would recommend that the well prepared climber bring: a flashlight, matches (or lighter), 27 power bars (cliff bars OK), toilet paper, gas mask (in case weapons of mass destruction are found lurking under this boulder), fleece, rain gear, umbrella, bivy bag, and of course, a bolt kit (in case you ever get up the nerve to lead Double Cross. Apr 4, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
You can use the scale on the site easily enough. You always have to read in context. On this site, 0 stars is a bonb, 1 star is unremarkable, 2 stars is a great line, and 3 stars is a climb you consider to be a super-classic that you called all of your pals about that night. Every book and every author use different scales. By using the scale as published on this site, you can maintain consistency. That's better than putting what you think it should be on someother scale and then haggling over which scale is correct. Apr 4, 2003
Steven Powers
Steven Powers  
ive done bolder problems in the park that are taller.... Oct 7, 2003
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Now this is the kind of verbosity that legends are made of.

PS cinco estrellas es mas bueno para mi. Nov 6, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
After rehearsing the initial overhanging moves on toprope and fixing the first pitches, we were able to claim a victorious 1-day, completely free ascent. 18 hours car to car. The bar has been set. Nov 16, 2004
Gee, I always thought you were supposed to start from the top and climb it down head first. I gotta try it going up I guess. Nov 17, 2004
Choss Chasin'
Torrance, CA
Choss Chasin'   Torrance, CA
You guys joke but I've seen a group of guys thrashing about on this one while on top rope....Also the top anchor was about 6 feet below the top out. Aug 25, 2010
Bjorn   WNC
I bouldered this with some tourists nearby the other day and they gaped and gawked like I was some kind of sorcerer. Wound up autographing a few boobs over it. Mar 25, 2013