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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,055 total, 17/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on a boulder that is separate from AFPA rock, but easily visible from the road. Starts off with an overhang, crack then goes vertical. Crack offers good jams, and features on the outside of the crack offer good edges.

Protection

This crack takes good gear. Small cams or nuts work at the bottom. Medium size cams work higher up. Set the anchor in a horizontal crack(takes small to medium cams).

Photos

Bjorn
Leadvegas, CO
Bjorn   Leadvegas, CO
I bouldered this with some tourists nearby the other day and they gaped and gawked like I was some kind of sorcerer. Wound up autographing a few boobs over it. Mar 25, 2013
Choss Chasin'
Torrance, CA
Choss Chasin'   Torrance, CA
You guys joke but I've seen a group of guys thrashing about on this one while on top rope....Also the top anchor was about 6 feet below the top out. Aug 25, 2010
Gee, I always thought you were supposed to start from the top and climb it down head first. I gotta try it going up I guess. Nov 17, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.14-
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.14-
After rehearsing the initial overhanging moves on toprope and fixing the first pitches, we were able to claim a victorious 1-day, completely free ascent. 18 hours car to car. The bar has been set. Nov 16, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.13b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.13b
Now this is the kind of verbosity that legends are made of.

PS cinco estrellas es mas bueno para mi. Nov 6, 2004
Steven Powers
  5.8
Steven Powers  
  5.8
ive done bolder problems in the park that are taller.... Oct 7, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
You can use the scale on the site easily enough. You always have to read in context. On this site, 0 stars is a bonb, 1 star is unremarkable, 2 stars is a great line, and 3 stars is a climb you consider to be a super-classic that you called all of your pals about that night. Every book and every author use different scales. By using the scale as published on this site, you can maintain consistency. That's better than putting what you think it should be on someother scale and then haggling over which scale is correct. Apr 4, 2003
Randy
  5.15c/d
Randy  
  5.15c/d
Routes of this length see frequent unplanned bivies, particularly during the shorter winter days from November through February. I would recommend that the well prepared climber bring: a flashlight, matches (or lighter), 27 power bars (cliff bars OK), toilet paper, gas mask (in case weapons of mass destruction are found lurking under this boulder), fleece, rain gear, umbrella, bivy bag, and of course, a bolt kit (in case you ever get up the nerve to lead Double Cross. Apr 4, 2003
A.J. After a riveting experience on Tennis Shoe Crack which of these 6 star J-Tree classics of equivalent grade would you recommend: Fluff Boy, Funky Dung, or Wake Me When It's Over?

Apr 1, 2003
I agree that this is clearly not a 3 star route. I also, however, agree that 0 stars should not be a bomb. I gave Nolina Crack at White Cliffs of Dover 0 stars, in order to keep it in perspective with what 1 star means (to me anyways). I don't think it's a bomb, it's a perfectly fine route but thoroughly unnoteworthy. Mar 21, 2003
Randy
  5.15c/d
Randy  
  5.15c/d
A not-so hidden gem. A classic in the rough. Simply one of the best short routes in Josh, bar none. Need I say more? Mar 20, 2003