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Routes in AFPA Rock

All That Glitters is not Golden TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Andromeda Strain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Bad Bitch TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bitch, Bitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bolder Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boulder Crack T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dance On a Dragon's Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ditch Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McDonald-Wilson T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Request Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rip Off T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sand Witch T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Spaghetti Sauce Sunset T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stakeout T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Terminal Man, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Two Our Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Bitch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Which Witch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Witchy Woman TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zsa Zsa Goes to Jail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Don O'Kelley and Bill Mikus, FFA: John Wolfe, December 1972
Page Views: 770 total, 5/month
Shared By: Locker on Jan 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The start is the fun stuff, but the climb has a bit of variety that makes it worth a shot. Close to the road with easy access and just a couple routes to the right of Andromeda Strain, afternoon sun, and to top it off, right next to a few other fun and relatively easy climbs. After finishing, drop off then head left to a small slab for the walk off. Easy!

Protection

easy to protect with cams in the small to medium sizes. Passive pro would work as well (we were just being lazy). A boulder near the top is easily girth hitched with a double length sling if desired and cams, tri cams or slings girthed for an anchor on top good.

Photos

mhagny
  5.8+
mhagny  
  5.8+
Agreed that the first 15' is stout for a 5.8, even in J-tree. Oct 30, 2016
Alex Peterson
Kamas, Utah
Alex Peterson   Kamas, Utah
Crux is right at the start, but it is easy to pro and push pass. Rest of the climb provides a variety of alternatives. Easy to set up a TR off the large boulder on top, so my kids could play on it afterwards. This is a great ("warm") winter climb. Nov 17, 2012
seamstress
  5.8
seamstress  
  5.8
There is a great fist jam at the crux, but getting the height to reach it was the problem. I ended up putting my left hand underneath the bulge where there is some texture to hold onto. Then I was able to get my feet higher so I could reach the jam. On the second half of the climb, I went left the first time I climbed this. It was dirty and the pro was sketchy, but at that point, I didn't have the nerve to downclimb. The right side looks harder, but is safer. Good climb for a cold day. Dec 28, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Pretty hard start for 5.8. Good route. Oct 24, 2007
E. Ramos
Los Angeles, CA
 
E. Ramos   Los Angeles, CA
 
My first 'roped' climb in Joshua Tree! Many (many) thanks to Locker and his son (Doug) ;) Fun climb... it begins on the 'crux' with a bouldering move that leads up onto a massive shelf (good spot to rest when your in the desert heat!). From the shelf up, it's pretty straight forward, but I ended up smearing on the left side of the crack making it a variation, and a bit more difficult then the original graded route. Beginners Tip: Stay toward the right when beginning the 'crux'. You will find it awkward if you try climbing off the left side. This route is also best climbed during the early morning, or later afternoon. Mar 28, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
So-so climbing but not totally worthless. Zero stars out of five. Feb 25, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8
Vary the climb after the mid-way point to add some flavor. The rating changes of course so if you plan to mix it up eyeball it and be sure. But we did some fun changes that made it a tad bit more challenging. Feb 19, 2004