Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Clay Watson and many friends
Page Views: 1,516 total · 7/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Jul 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the steep headwall to the right of Wienie Roast and crosses through the route Sunday Brunch. It has great movement on mixed bolts and gear (like the other routes at Moss Ledges). This route can be easily viewed atop the dryfall opposite the stream from the other routes.

Location Suggest change

This route starts about 10-15 feet to the right of Wienie Roast and climbs 5.7 or 8-ish up to a white arete roof where the bolts (and the steepness) begin. It ends atop the apex the long roof with the chains 5' to the right.

Protection Suggest change

This takes a ton of gear and you'll want to sew it up. Single set of cams between .3 and #3 camalot. Use long runners on the bottom approach climbing to reduce drag, then regular draws for the rest. 70m rope.

After you climb the approach face stand on a ramp and look for a white face with an overlap. Clip 2 bolts on the face by the overlap as you move your way up a cool rail for a few moves. That ramp is lurking below so keep your eye out for gear as you make your way to the next bolt. Undercling your way into the next crack and use a hand sized cam or two as you traverse directly across the route Sunday Brunch. Start the crux by moving through a finger crack with a uniquely cool fingerlock/thumb-crimp and bomber gear, then hold on for the last 2 bolts of steep climbing. The chains are just to the right of the apex of the route on clean, hard rock.  

This was one of my first .12 trad leads and my first .12 fa. I was (and still am) relatively intimidated by placing gear on lead, especially while I'm climbing at my limit. It kind of sucks to work Burning Embers on TR but it IS nice to have the gear in place while you're figuring out the moves. We added Salmonella after the fact and once we did, we realized that it created nice TR access for that purpose.

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