Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Clay Watson, Tyler Phillips
Page Views: 664 total · 4/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Aug 22, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

This is a super fun crack system with several cruxes and good rests. Its a great route for sport climbers who want to learn how to place gear. It traverses a little and protecting your second is almost more important than protecting yourself so sew it up.

Location

On the left and out of the creek bed about 20 -30 feet upstream from the bolts of Hibatchi time. Look up and left at the anchors of Burning Embers with big fatty chains from which to TR and project that really fun climb. The crack system diaganols up and under a series of roofs for 80? or so feet. There is now a little purple graffiti right by the start.

Protection

Set of cams from tcu's up to hand sized with extra medium cam or two around orange tcu through .5 or .75 camalot and long runners. I also used two old style #4 camalots and would have liked a #5 for the last 10 feet. It isn't mandatory but would be nice. We used our #5 camalot (but a medium nut works) to hang a rope bag at the bottom belay to keep the rope out of the creek. You could get away with a second #3 in place of one of the #4's. Don't be afraid of the large sizes because you use the crack like a jug rail as you traverse up and left. Just think of it as an excuse to drag those big cams that you paid all that money for and haven't actually used in several years. I think a 60m rope would work, but I used a 70.

Photos