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Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 1.9 from 18
votes
Routes in Blue Grama Cliff
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[Closed] Dawn of an Age T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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[Closed] Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Blue Grama T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cricket roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Formerly Aided (aka Juniper Twig) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Resort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rt 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown far left (AKA: Benny's Junk Yard) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11- T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unnamed 9+ (aka Mexican Unicorn) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.02641, -109.53879 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,557 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor.
Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.
Location
This is the flake and crack system left of Blue Gramma, climbing to the same anchor. Refer to the route description on that page.
Protection
A few cams from .75" to 1.5" to start, a quickdraw for a fixed pin at the crux and perhaps a large cam to back it up (#4 camalot") and handful of 2.5-3.5" (heavy on the BD #2 and #3 camalots) for the top half, where the climbing is not hard, but you are pumped.
A TR is possible from Blue Gramma with a 3" cam for a directional somewhere left of the top- otherwise a fall at the crux might be exciting.
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