Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Ian Allison (solo) FFA: Ian Allison,Eric Dixon & Brad Brandewie
Page Views: 1,673 total · 17/month
Shared By: IanA on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the prominent tower on the right side of Blue Gramma.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Starts on a good ledge just below a large juniper tree. Climb up slabby rock to the crack in a left facing corner. The crack starts out .75 camalot but quickly gets wider to a #3 camalot climb into pod just below the flared roof crack which is protected by a old 4.5 camalot. Climb out roof crack (crux) mostly #3 camalot but takes #4's at the lip. Pull roof on to small ledge and continue up to large sloping ledge to the right of the blunt arete. Build an anchor here in the horizontal .75- 3 Camalots.

Pitch 2: (5.10 PG13) Climb left around the arete and on to the face. At the first broken section you can get a red alien or .75 camalot. Continue face climbing up on good features following 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from the two bolt anchor on the summit. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. Be careful to not get you rope stuck in the crack.

Location

Hike up to Blue Gramma and head right of Petrelli Motors walk past the large pictographs until you are under the tower. Pick you way up to the ledge just below the obvious left facing corner and the large juniper tree.

Protection

Standard desert rack with triples 3's and two 4's, 5 quick draws for the 2nd pitch, some runners for the roof on the 1st pitch and 2 ropes.
Ben Kiessel  
 
Damn Ian! Nice work on that second pitch! To be honest I thought the roof was pretty cruiser although a little awkward. While the beginning of the second pitch was pretty damn burl. Getting to the first gear in the broken crack was heads up for sure and once I got to the bolt I tried freeing but said screw it and aided the rest.
Nice Job! Dec 6, 2010
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
I remember watching Ian walk up that face with all sorts of crap hanging off his harness...Bosch, bolts, hammer, etc...and then following it saying, "really?". The first pitch really isn't that bad, most of the flaky stuff has to be gone. Besides, I'm not that good at offwidths. Jun 11, 2011
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
great work!!! had a blast on this fun tower outing . sweet 2nd pitch real desert sport at its finest ... Apr 24, 2012

More About Desert Siren (Tower)

Printer-Friendly