Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA: Ian Allison (solo) FFA: Ian Allison,Eric Dixon & Brad Brandewie
Page Views: 2,120 total · 17/month
Shared By: IanA on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route climbs the prominent tower on the right side of Blue Gramma.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Starts on a good ledge just below a large juniper tree. Climb up slabby rock to the crack in a left facing corner. The crack starts out .75 camalot but quickly gets wider to a #3 camalot climb into pod just below the flared roof crack which is protected by a old 4.5 camalot. Climb out roof crack (crux) mostly #3 camalot but takes #4's at the lip. Pull roof on to small ledge and continue up to large sloping ledge to the right of the blunt arete. Build an anchor here in the horizontal .75- 3 Camalots.

Pitch 2: (5.10 PG13) Climb left around the arete and on to the face. At the first broken section you can get a red alien or .75 camalot. Continue face climbing up on good features following 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor just below the summit.

Descent: Rappel the route with two ropes from the two bolt anchor on the summit. Two 60m ropes will get you to the ground. Be careful to not get you rope stuck in the crack.

Location

Hike up to Blue Gramma and head right of Petrelli Motors walk past the large pictographs until you are under the tower. Pick you way up to the ledge just below the obvious left facing corner and the large juniper tree.

Protection

Standard desert rack with triples 3's and two 4's, 5 quick draws for the 2nd pitch, some runners for the roof on the 1st pitch and 2 ropes.

Photos