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Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor)

5.11, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Blue Gramma Cliff
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Description

This climb is a left-facing flake several meters left of the classic climb Blue Gramma. It climbs up and right to reach that same anchor.
Mentally, climbing up and over right to the fixed pin is taxing. Soft rock 5.10- on so-so spaced gear. CLip the pin and power up on slightly dusty rock (don't slip) to reach good cupped hands and a few fists in the long crack above.

Location

This is the flake and crack system left of Blue Gramma, climbing to the same anchor. Refer to the route description on that page.

Protection

A few cams from .75" to 1.5" to start, a quickdraw for a fixed pin at the crux and perhaps a large cam to back it up (#4 camalot") and handful of 2.5-3.5" (heavy on the BD #2 and #3 camalots) for the top half, where the climbing is not hard, but you are pumped.
A TR is possible from Blue Gramma with a 3" cam for a directional somewhere left of the top- otherwise a fall at the crux might be exciting.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The climbing before the pin is very chill and no harder than 5.7 on positive holds. You get a great #2 before the traverse (and a #0.2 before that). Face moves at the pin felt 5.10 and non-obvious, but ok once I found the holds. No idea how you're supposed to back up the pin with a big cam, the best you can do is some flaring or sandy microcams.

The OW pod above the pin was by far the crux and at least 1 #4 is definitely needed. Fist jams, a kneelock, and a burly lieback got me through but maybe I missed some features. After that it's all deep #3s behind the flake. Nov 23, 2022