Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: L Choy, N. Hare, late 80's
Page Views: 1,061 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The crux may be getting off of the ground more than a few meters- the bottom is a bit sandy. Place a piece and step up onto the leaning crack and footholds to the left. Someone stacked cheater stones at the base, but these are totally unnecessary. Climb up on mixed jams to just over a final bulge with a newly refurbished fixed anchor (2006, actually). Rap with a 70M rope. A 60M rope WILL NOT get you down.
The present anchor at the top with a fixed #11 hex and pin were extensively tested, but the rock is a little soft and the anchor should be checked carefully before implicit trust is given it.

Location

This route is the furthest left route known on Blue Gramma. It is not documented in any place that I can find. Walk left from along the base of Blue Gramma cliff, North towards Supercrack Buttress. Continue to a low spot, where a low buttress forces hikers closest to the road and then turn a corner into a NW facing grey wall. A 2" crack starts up and left on this wall, passing a drilled angle en-route to a anchor consisting of a fixed #11 hex (I placed it) and a legacy lost-arrow in a horizontal.

Protection

A standard rack with cams from 1" to 3.5". one fixed pin exists at about mid-route on the right of the crack. The anchor at the top is not ideal, but seems as solid at the rock it is in.
A single 70M rope or 2 ropes are required to rap off

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10-
AKA: "Benny's Junk Yard" in the Creek Freak Book, #18 on page 50. Oct 23, 2018