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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,308 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 3, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Find this route toward the right-hand side of the developed area of Blue Gramma Cliff, just to the left of some large petroglyphs, in a sandy, light-colored section of rock. Just to the right of said petroglyphs is the route Moon Goddess Revenge, a more alluring flip-flop dihedral.

Petrelli Motors, a relatively short climb (60'), starts in a sandy tips-to-first-knuckle crack. Place a few TCUs in the start and move up through the crux to where the the rock becomes slabby, but more solid. A few move moves take you to the second section on some soft footholds (trust them?) where you can stick in a few more cams and go for the anchors.

The route is worth doing if you are there and are ready to pack it up, but is certainly no destination-maker.

Protection

Small cams and TCUs , mostly 0.4 - 0.75" with a few pieces up to good hand size.
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
 
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
 
Perfect fingers all the way for someone with medium size hands. Mostly 0.4-0.5 size. Could use 0.75 near the upper mantle parts. Dec 1, 2016
Mareko
San Francisco
 
Mareko   San Francisco
 
Great finger climb. Boulder start and a few lay back moves in the sequence. May 6, 2013
E.S. Hernandez
GOLDEN, CO
E.S. Hernandez   GOLDEN, CO
Great fingers near the bottom. There's cool petroglyphs to the right of this climb but just a little further to the right, and up a bit high, there's life-sized petroglyphs of three people. Really cool! Jun 2, 2012
A good pitch. Rope grooves make good side pulls for the last move! Jun 11, 2009
montejr21 montemayor
Yucaipa, CA
montejr21 montemayor   Yucaipa, CA
I absolutely love this route and it's one of my all time favorites. Perfect fingers - must have climbed this 5 or 6 times. Jun 1, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
The Bloom guidebook is off on the sizes for this route. I think he recommends .5"-2.0", but there's nothing larger than a 0.75 (green) camalot, and that's in the first 15' of the route. All small stuff after that. Nov 14, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
This was my favorite climb at IC. So much fun and great bouldery moves. I made it super exciting by not bringing enough small cams. Apr 19, 2006