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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,859 total · 13/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This "Unnamed 10+" is one of the best lines at Blue Gramma. It lies in-between the route Blue Gramma (to the left) and Petrelli Motors (to the right). Look for a right-facing dihedral approximately 30' left of Petrelli Motors. Crux is getting out of the pod.

Protection

Several 0.75 (green) camalots, 0.5 (purple) camalots for the top, and an optional 4" piece for the pod in the middle.

Photos

Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mostly #1 and 0.75 camalots, plus 1 or 2 0.5 camalots. A #4 camalot fits very well in the wide section, and a #3 camalot can also be used if you like to sew it up. Mar 23, 2009
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Really good line with varied climbing- wish it was longer! Nov 19, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
This route won't take anything smaller than a green Camalot, placed about 6 of those, 3 reds, and a #4 and #5 in the offwidth pod (crux for me). May 6, 2012
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10+
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10+
Err, personally would not want to do this without a 0.5 or two.

A couple harder moves than some of the easy 5.11- climbs at the creek.

Oh, and Bloom's description sucks. Nov 9, 2013
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
You can definitely place .5 camalots above the pod if you wanted, in addition to .75 camalots Nov 12, 2013
I love this route. Put a big 5 cam high into the pod and then cruise it up with good heel&toe work. Easy and light hearted Nov 12, 2017

More About Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod)

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