Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,240 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill. This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.

This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age. The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top. There does not seem to be a technical crux.

The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy. It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams. 2 sets should do nicely.

Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.


Ahhh- for once something you protect on just 2 sets of cams...The gear is of increasing size from 1" to 3.5" as you climb upward. Take 2 of each size cam from 1.5 to 3", possibly with three each from 2.5" to 3.5" the (wide hands/narrow fist), if you are pushing your grade or if you like to sew it up.


Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
Personally, I think the technical crux comes at the top when it turns into an offwidth after lovely thin hands crack climbing and laybacking. They should have put the anchors about 10 feet lower! Apr 19, 2006
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I dunno, the fact that you can get a solid no hands rest while clipping the anchors indicates to me that they are placed perfectly. It is a drag to reach that offwidth though, after all that perfect thin hands. Sep 18, 2006
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
tough route. I was gassed up high. fun though!

CL Oct 21, 2008
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
This is a classic pitch! It runs through the sizes from bottom to top yet provides a few rests along the way. I would also agree with Aimee that the crux is near the top. Anchors seem to be in an ideal position unless she was just saying they should be positioned lower as to avoid the wide climbing... get on this thing! Nov 28, 2016