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Unnamed II (fingers through fists)
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 120
votes
Routes in Blue Grama Cliff
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[Closed] Dawn of an Age T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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[Closed] Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c X |
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Blue Grama T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cricket roof T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Formerly Aided (aka Juniper Twig) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Last Resort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rt 1 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown far left (AKA: Benny's Junk Yard) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.11- T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Unnamed 9+ (aka Mexican Unicorn) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.02641, -109.53879 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,550 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 13, 2002 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill. This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.
This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age. The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top. There does not seem to be a technical crux.
The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy. It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams. 2 sets should do nicely.
Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.
Protection
Ahhh- for once something you protect on just 2 sets of cams...The gear is of increasing size from 1" to 3.5" as you climb upward. Take 2 of each size cam from 1.5 to 3", possibly with three each from 2.5" to 3.5" the (wide hands/narrow fist), if you are pushing your grade or if you like to sew it up.
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