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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,110 total, 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 13, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Park at Blue Gramma and head up the hill. This climb is just to the left, on aspect of the cliff that is facing the road.

This Left-facing Corner is just left of "Formerly Aided" and just right of an Unnamed 5.9 Right Facing corner, or 2 cracks to the right of Dawn Of An Age. The crack starts fairly small (and easy) and gets harder as the size, angle, and pump increase towards the top. There does not seem to be a technical crux.

The rock here is a little more corse and soft than in some other climbs, so it is a little sandy. It is another great corner climb in Indian Creek though, and one you can easily protect without a truckload of cams. 2 sets should do nicely.

Rap or lower from the fixed anchors.

Protection

Ahhh- for once something you protect on just 2 sets of cams...The gear is of increasing size from 1" to 3.5" as you climb upward. Take 2 of each size cam from 1.5 to 3", possibly with three each from 2.5" to 3.5" the (wide hands/narrow fist), if you are pushing your grade or if you like to sew it up.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.10
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.10
This is a classic pitch! It runs through the sizes from bottom to top yet provides a few rests along the way. I would also agree with Aimee that the crux is near the top. Anchors seem to be in an ideal position unless she was just saying they should be positioned lower as to avoid the wide climbing... get on this thing! Nov 28, 2016
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
tough route. I was gassed up high. fun though!

CL Oct 21, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I dunno, the fact that you can get a solid no hands rest while clipping the anchors indicates to me that they are placed perfectly. It is a drag to reach that offwidth though, after all that perfect thin hands. Sep 18, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
Personally, I think the technical crux comes at the top when it turns into an offwidth after lovely thin hands crack climbing and laybacking. They should have put the anchors about 10 feet lower! Apr 19, 2006