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Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")

Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Reese Martin (solo), 1986
Page Views: 1,204 total · 8/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Fun and aesthetic little crack, although dirt seems to continuously funnel itself down the route.

A huge roof (protected by a 3 to 3-1/2" piece) is bypassed to the right on great holds. From here, delicate climbing up a thin crack leads to the summit.

The actual crux is near the top, on a tricky finger-lock. Place a decent nut and lose the finger lock, or take the finger-lock and forego the protection.

Protection

Small nuts and cams up to a 3-1/2" piece.

New fixed anchors were placed on top in 2006 (two 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts with rings).

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Swiped two different times, actually. Apr 18, 2013
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.8
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.8
Great route, really fun lead, and the crack protects really well. The two bolts at the top are a very nice addition too. I used to have to extend an anchor point off bushes to set up the TR on this one; now there are two nice bolts perfectly placed for duty. No rings or chains though. Not sure if someone swiped 'em or what. Apr 16, 2013