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Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")

Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Tim Coates, Mike Moore
Page Views: 160 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Clean sweep is the mostly-bolted route to the right of the crack that splits the left side of Foothill Crag. There is a run-out section that isn't too difficult, but if you were to slip near the top of the runout before clipping you'd probably deck. The runout section might be protectable with a cam or two.

The climbing is sandy slab climbing, clean at the bottom, kinda dirty in the runout section and near the top.

Protection

3 bolts, a runout section, then 2 bolts and anchors. The anchors are not accessible from the top without rappelling, but the route can be top-roped using a tree and a stout bush with about 20 feet or so of extension needed.

Reese Martin replaced 1 anchor bolt on Clean Sweep - 9/99.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The first ascentionist requested that a lower first bolt be placed. The moment Tim asks for more bolts higher up, someone should consider obliging him--and not sooner. Feb 18, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Agreed. The difference is that the climbing through the first three bolts is 3 or 4 grades harder than the runout that you refer to. Feb 26, 2010
Even with the additional 3rd bolt (why?) at the start, there is deck potential from 30+ feet getting to the 4th bolt. There are one or two questionable small gear placements in the runout, but based on the rock quality, they likely wouldn't hold. Feb 25, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
A few interesting historical notes:

First, the name was derived from the process of cleaning the route. The rock was literally so dirty that Coates and Moore rappelled the route with large push-brooms, removing buckets-full of dirt.

Second, the actual FA was done rope-solo by Tim Coates. At the time, the route sported just two protection bolts, the first of which was 30 feet off the ground. Coates tied one end of the rope to a tree and clipped in using a clovehitch. He then fired all the way to the anchors on a fixed belay, clipping two bolts enroute. Feb 18, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
In late 2005, a lower first bolt was added to the route at the request of first-ascentionist Tim Coates. This bolt is a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.

The start of the route feels like 5.10b if you don't use the obvious corner that sits 5 feet to the left.

The rock quality at the top of this route is very poor. In 2003, a belayer nearly met her maker when the leader pulled a toaster-sized block off from about 60 feet up. Be careful on this one. Feb 18, 2006