Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: TR: Reese Martin? Lead: M. Fienup (2006)
Page Views: 962 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route was top-roped at 5.10, and Reese Martin apparently had plans to bolt it. In the style of Tim Coates (on Clean Sweep) and Martin (on From the Ashes & Roothless Poodles), this route was first led on roped-solo.

The route starts with 5.9 climbing on good edges past the first bolt. The crux (5.10a) is passing the second bolt on subtle features.

After gaining an obvious ledge, climb the left side of the blunt arete to the top (past two more protection bolts).

Protection

Four lead bolts (three 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts and a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt). To really sew this up, you'll want a single 1/2" or 1" cam.

Shares the top anchor with From the Ashes.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a/b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a/b
"The blunt arete on its (Ashes') right was toproped at 5.10 and may have 4 bolts by the time you read this."

-Edwards, Steve. Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc., 2000. May 24, 2010
Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
What a good one, makes for a nice solo. A low crux to a nice rest, then easy liebacking. Jul 23, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a/b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a/b