I Love L.A.
Avg: 2.8 from 11 votes
Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
|Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Sargent, Powers, Martin (1986)|
|Page Views:||1,177 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Feb 28, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionI Love L.A. follows a line of bolts immediately left of Ruthless Poodles and tackles the steepest line on the wall.
Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains an obvious ledge. From here, the difficulties begin. Reach high, stem wide and pull yourself off of the ledge. Follow insecure holds to a DESPERATE clip at the roof. The clip itself is the clear crux of the route--blow this clip and you may deck on the aforementioned ledge.
Strenuous and balancy moves on positive holds (5.10a) lead up and right out of the roof and onto the upper headwall. If on lead, keep your cool because a slight runout on 5.8 terrain leads to the next bolt.
Finally, traverse either right or left to your choice of fixed anchors (also 5.8).
To many, this route feels harder than Ruthless Poodles.
ProtectionBolts. [ed. note: 3 protection bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin]
An untimely fall after leaving the massive ledge at mid-height could put you back on the ledge. It is possible to carry small gear (up to 3/4") to protect this spot.
As mentioned, the clip at the roof is desperate. A short, but exposed runout awaits you above the roof.
All in all, a very serious lead.