Chummin' for Splatter
Avg: 2.6 from 8 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Mrazek, Martin (1987)|
|Page Views:||960 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Feb 28, 2006|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionChummin' follows a line 15 feet left of I Love LA.
Super fun and reasonably-protected 5.9 face climbing past two bolts gains a massive ledge.
A reachy, 5.11 move gets you off the ledge. A few more moves gains another smaller ledge (and a good rest before pulling the roof). A couple of balancy moves (5.11b), with your left hand on the arete, lead to easier ground and then to the anchor.
ProtectionThis route is seriously runout at the crux. Any gear that might be placed is marginal. This is really only a toprope...and even then, significant swing-potential makes pulling the crux a thought-provoking endeavor.
I've explored placing a directional but none of the rock above the crux is hard enough to hold a bolt.
Update: 4 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced 9/99 by Reese Martin.