Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: Martin, Powers, Mrazek (1986-87)
Page Views: 481 total · 3/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Teetering follows a line of subtle features on the face between Moon Doggies and From the Ashes.

To locate the start, look for a hangerless bolt 15 feet off the ground and above the horizontal break (look carefully, it's hard to see). From this bolt climb straight up over a bulge to a second hangerless bolt (5.10a). Head up and left, following the lowest-angle part of the face (5.10c/d). The moves above the second bolt involve delicate friction and are quite beautiful.

Protection

This route is only a toprope. Even if the 2 protection bolts had hangers, this would be an R/X route.

For the toprope anchor, there are 2 options: (1) tie off several medium-sized sumac bushes or (2) use the fixed anchor on Moon Doggies and place a #1 TCU in a horizontal crack as a directional. When using option 2, be sure to place your directional carefully as failure of the cam and the ensuing swing could be painful.

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